Posts Tagged ‘seamungus’

Growing potatoes

24
Aug
2011

lets grow potato bag You can’t beat home grown spuds, and if you’re married to an irishman (like me!) then it is nearly illegal not to plant some….or rather LOTS!

The great news is that potatoes are pretty easy to grow and very productive. I still get a thrill out of the fact that, 1 seed potato will yield between 8-10 MORE potatoes.

Potatoes can be grown in the ground, a garden bed OR in containers. Container planting is a brilliant way of growing potatoes in small spaces.

Potatoes are grown from “seed potatoes” – these aren’t really seeds like ones you get in a foil packet. Seed potatoes look just like normal potatoes – except certified seed potatoes have been grown in a disease free zone to ensure that your potato plants also grow disease free!

Some people like to “chit” their seed potatoes before planting – this basically means leaving them in a light (but not full sun) position to develop the eyes or sprouts. This shows you which way to plant the potatoes – shoots pointing up. But I’ve often planted my seed potatoes without chitting them – and had a great harvest.

Potatoes LOVE:

  • a full sun position
  • well draining soil, that is rich in organic matter
  • regular watering – don’t let them dry out.

Potatoes HATE:

  • frost, if you live in a frost prone area leave your planting until after the frosts.
  • wet feet, make sure the site you choose for your potatoes has good drainage. If you are planting in containers make sure they have plenty of drainage holes – DO NOT use self watering pots.

I’ve got these clever potato bags from Gardentrend – they are designed to fold up when it is not potato season – great for balconies or courtyards.

You can check out this video on planting potatoes in containers……

To plant potatoes in containersplanting potatoes

1. Use an organic soil rich mix. A mix of 50% compost and 50% potting mix is great. Or 100% compost will also work fine. Choose a certified organic one if possible!

2. Add in a generous 2 handfuls of Seamungus fertiliser to each container (mixed through the soil). Commercial potato farmers have found that Seamungus really helps improve the number of potatoes at harvest.

3. Cover the bottom of your container with a 15cm deep layer of your soil mix. And place the seed potatoes on the surface of this.

4. Now cover over these spuds with about 5-10cm of more soil. And water in well. Place in a full sun spot in your garden.

5. Within 2-3 weeks you’ll see green shoots emerging. As the shoots emerge and grow skywards, continue to cover them with more soil mix OR you can use pea straw or lucerne mulch. Covering the emerging green shoots encourages more potatoes to grow.

6. Once you’ve filled the container with soil or mulch within a few centimetres of the top – stop back filling and leave the potatoes to develop and grow. The green foliage will grow 1-2 feet above the top of the container.

** For planting potatoes in your garden or garden bed, improve the soil first with compost and Seamungus, fork through well and then plant your seed potatoes as per steps 4-6.

HARVESTING your potatoes

You can harvest “new” potatoes 12-14 weeks from planting – new potatoes are small potatoes with a fragile skin that doesn’t really need peeling. They are delicious boiled whole and served drizzled with butter and parsley. YUM! 

These clever potato bags above have velcro side flaps that makes scouting for these new potatoes really easy!

If you have the patience, wait until the foliage of the potato plants has died back and then dive in and dig for your spuds. These more mature potatoes have a tougher skin, so they store well.

STORING your potatoes

Lay out your newly harvested spuds on some newspaper to air dry for a day – just to take the moisture out of the soil clinging to them. Then place them in a newspaper lined box, in a cool and dry place. Cover with a lid or a few more pieces of newspaper to keep the light out and prevent your precious harvest from turning green. They should last for 2-3 months depending on variety and storage conditions.

** The Gardentrend “Let’s Grow” Potato  Bags are available in sets of 2 from Bunnings Warehouse**

One very sad kaffir lime tree

Well the S.M.G (save my garden) question came from my friends (Janet & Nick) who are worried about their very sad looking kaffir lime tree.

Kaffir lime trees are a great one to have in the garden or on your balcony (especially if you LOVE cooking asian style foods) but here are a few essentials to growing them:

  • they need full sun and a warm spot (so a north facing balcony, just like J&N have,  is ideal)
  • they need good drainage
    • if growing in a pot….. a good quality potting mix and a pot with good drainage holes is essential.
    • if growing in the ground…….improve the soil with compost before planting and check that the site you’ve chosen doesn’t collect water.
  • they need feeding……I like using a pelletised, composted chook manure that has added seaweed as a gentle feed or tonic for the plant. You can also use a citrus specific fertiliser – just please please pick one that has an organic (eg. manure) base to it!

Yellowing leaves on kaffir lime tree

So what is wrong with J&N’s kaffir lime tree? They’ve had it since Christmas 2010 and they said it has barely grown at all, not much new leaf growth and the leaves are turning yellow.

My suggestion would be that this plant is STRESSED!

What makes me think it is stressed?

1. It is not responding to the citrus fertiliser they’ve given it.

2. It IS in the ideal spot – warm and sunny north facing balcony.

3. It HAS good drainage, so wet feet aren’t it’s problem.

So what this plant needs is a bit of nurturing. It’s roots aren’t happy, it is not taking up nutrients and it is suffering.

 

The Road to Recovery is a 3 step process for this tree


1. Be cruel to be kind! I trimmed off 1/3 of all the branches – yep it looks rather sparse after the trim but it will come back.

2. Sprinkle over a GENTLE plant tonic such as Seamungus (full of seaweed goodness) – this will give the plant a slow feed of chook manure, seaweed and fishmeal – “chicken soup” for sick plants!

3. Fortnightly use a liquid plant tonic (look for something that is JUST a seaweed solution or a mix of seaweed and fish solution……nothing with added chemical boosters!)

The idea with the above tips is to recover the root system of the plant, get it up taking nutrients correctly and then actively growing. Miracles won’t happen over night (and the warmer weather of spring/summer will help it along) but with a bit of TLC it will recover.

HINT: Don’t waste the leaves you trim off your kaffir lime when it needs a prune. The leaves freeze really well – pop them in a zip lock bag in the freezer and use in cooking as you need. YUMMMMM……I can almost smell the laksa!

photography by hynesite photography